Caviar has long been the preserve of the rich. One of the most expensive ingredients in the world, a tasting pot of 10g can set you back just shy of £30. Yet in recent months, caviar has undergone something of an image overhaul, and despite the fact that the price tag remains unchanged, its clientele has significantly broadened. Sales of sturgeon roe are up 74 per cent globally, according to 360 Research Reports, with the market forecast to grow by 40 per cent by 2027. And the people behind it? Gen Z.
On TikTok, “caviartok” has 2.2 million views, with Gen Zers sharing their “snack” recipes for it, inspired by caviar heiress Danielle Zaslavsky (her grandfather created the Markys brand) whose video of her favourite recipe – caviar on buttered rye bread – has amassed 632k likes and 24.6k shares since she first shared it in November 2022. Since then, she’s become a caviar influencer, with the mission of democratising fish roe, serving it with everything from pizza to ice cream to Doritos.
Fortum & Mason are reporting a 13 per cent increase in sales of their Platinum Caviar year on year, but they are also seeing sales of their caviar and crisps tin (a gift set that comprises both their 125g of Baerii caviar and Patatas Fritas crisps), as well as their caviar-flavoured crisps (which they recommend pairing with Champagne) soaring. Claridge’s relaunched restaurant serves both the Oscietra and Beluga varieties as an amuse bouche, while 45 Jermyn St makes a show of theirs by measuring it out at the table alongside blinis, baked new potatoes and freshly made scrambled eggs.
At last year’s British Fashion Awards, caviar was served with crisps, while at the launch of ABC Kitchens at the Maybourne Group’s latest hotel, The Emory, it was presented on egg toast – a Jean Georges signature. Caviar “bumps”, when the sturgeon eggs are smeared on the back of your hand and eaten off it, have become all the rage, with Taylor Swift and bestie Sophie Turner spotted partaking at Temple Bar in New York. The thinking being that allowing caviar to get to the temperature of your skin enhances its taste. In the UK, you can enjoy a “bump” of Sturia caviar at The Savoy’s Beaufort Bar when you order a martini, and they’ve also got a pop-up boutique from Petrossian in the Upper Thames Foyer where you can try before you buy.
London’s restaurant scene has taken note, with a plethora of high-low options available. The Game Bird serves Exmoor caviar with hot English crumpets, while at the Pearly Queen and Sexy Fish, you can scoop it up on prawn crackers. Jacuzzi, the newest from restaurant group Big Mamma, has combined a Venetian version with their pizzette starters, having already made pizza plus caviar a thing with Ave Mario. Counter 71 in Shoreditch recently hosted a pop up pairing menu, combining caviar with fried chicken, to redefine how we perceive it. Then it's the battle of the tempura versions at Bubbledogs’ new pop-up at 45 Park Lane and The Oysterman in Covent Garden, with the former serving their dressed native lobster tempura with beluga caviar and Marie Rose sauce, and the latter topping tempura oysters with champagne aioli and caviar.
The members club Caviar Kaspia, known for its mountains of edible pearls, recently celebrated its first anniversary, after reopening to much fanfare in Mayfair last February. While in the 1990s, it was frequented by the likes of Princess Diana, its new owners are keen for it to be accessible to all. There is no dress code, and we really wanted to make something that was for members and friends of friends. Everybody’s more than welcome,” CEO Ramon Mac-Crohon told WWD.
Of course, the restaurants where you’d traditionally go for your caviar fix have also seen a boom in visitors recently, including Bob Bob Ricard, which serves 500g of it every year. We have always been known for caviar but what we have noticed in the recent years is the younger generation developing a taste for it,” shares Bob Bob Ricard’s founder, Leonid Shutov. “Gen Z seems to have particular affection for things with a sense of history and heritage. Caviar’s very old school feel, the sense of occasion and decorum when it is being served all appeal to their aesthetics and values. And, of course, it is one of the very few indulgences in life that are actually good for you – which is more than can be said for such luxuries like whisky and cigars!”
Those who want to create their own viral snack at home need look no further than Umai Caviar, the sister brand to N25, which is used at Bibi, The Ledbury and Ikoyi. Launched last year with the aim of making caviar more light-hearted and approachable, its navy blue and chocolate brown tins are particularly aesthetically-pleasing. “The Umai Modern is versatile and can be combined with delicately flavoured fish or even desserts like vanilla ice cream,” shares Umai founder Hermes Gehnen. “Whereas the Umai Heritage has mineral and ocean notes, paired well with beef tartare or scallops.”
So, how should you serve it yourself? “The purest way to do caviar justice and also the simplest is to serve it on a bit of fresh, crunchy baguette crust with a tiny dollop of crème fraiche or sour cream,” advises Shutov. “Both the flavour and texture of fresh baguette are a perfect backdrop for caviar, while the crème fraiche lends it a gently note of acidity. Serving caviar with blini (and, once again, with the mandatory crème fraiche or sour cream) elevates it another level by adding to the mix the subtle sweetness and delicate warmth of the blini. Add a sip of ice-cold vodka or vintage Champagne – and life does not taste much better than that whatever generation you belong to.”
